The choice of rope primarily depends on what you plan to use it for and how much money you are willing to spend. For example, you should not give a climber a beautiful and expensive zylon rope so that he breaks his back, falling off a cliff because the rope does not stretch. But nylon may well suit him, because it stretches and dampens the inevitable shock loads when falling.
Conversely, the owner of the yacht will love the gift bindings for the sails, but not made of stretch nylon, because he will have to constantly tie them up to keep the sail tight. A polyester cord is much more suitable here.
To decide what type of rope you need, consider the following points:
Should she reach out? Do you need a floating rope? Is friction resistance important? Will the rope be exposed to UV light frequently? Are you ready to buy a cheap and therefore disposable rope? Are there ropes specially designed for what you need? Does the color of the rope matter to you?
As a rule, modern ropes, both climbing and sea, are made of braided, with a smooth solid surface, in contrast to the older twisted or twisted ropes made from plant fibers. Rigid twisted cables exist now and are used in many places, but still they are not as popular as they used to be.
Some synthetic materials deteriorate from excess ultraviolet radiation. In order for the duration of their service to be long enough, it is necessary to use inhibitors. Some modern materials, such as Kevlar and Vectran, are so sensitive to UV light that they must be stored in complete darkness until they are woven into a rope to protect them from light.
There are various breaking force charts to help you find the right diameter for your application. It is better to use the most recent data, because manufacturers are constantly changing the numbers.
What are climbing gloves for? This is, first of all, the protection of the athlete's hands from the effects of precipitation and temperature changes, as well as objects that can harm the hands. Climbers who train in natural conditions often use two gloves at once - inner and insulated over them. This helps keep your hands warm and provides protection from wind currents. If you need to work with your fingers, you can remove the upper gloves and move more freely, leaving the inner ones. It is the optimal solution for sport climbing.
How to choose the right gloves, and what are their varieties? We propose to understand these issues in this article.
When working with ropes and cables, it is necessary to protect your hands from skin chafing and wounds. This is true for both novice athletes and experienced climbers. The main nuance that worries in the selection process is the preservation of the sensitivity of the fingers and the absence of interfering parts in the gloves. There are special products for maximum comfort when working with cables, which, along with the sensitivity of the fingers, also protect the palms from damage.
The most common gloves are generally fleece or options made from materials that are resistant to moisture. Depending on the purpose, the gloves can be equipped with additional parts. Reinforced palms may be present. They can be made of polymer or leather and help to protect the gloves from rapid wear. This is useful when working with a rope. The materials for the reinforced elements are non-slip, which guarantees normal adhesion to various objects.
When choosing gloves, remember to choose the right size. Products should not sit excessively loose, otherwise they can interfere with the exercise process. But they also cannot be too tight, because they will not be able to warm their hands, and the climber will simply be uncomfortable going up and down.
Despite the standardization of sizes, different manufacturers use their own measurements for the manufacture of gloves. This can be somewhat confusing for a beginner climber, however, it provides a more flexible choice of gloves specifically for their hand. For example, one person may have a wider palm, while another will have longer fingers. The main nuance is to choose those products in which it will be convenient for you.
Modern manufacturers produce various types of products that are needed for working with rope and protection during climbing and descending rocks:
The role of drag sleds in a winter hike can hardly be overestimated. Pulling a load in a sled through the snow is much easier than carrying the same weight in a backpack, especially considering that there is more load on winter hikes than on summer ones. At the same time, if the sled is well tuned, and the height differences on the route are not very sharp, then you practically will not feel the weight of the load in the drags. Moreover, you can load such things into the drags that you would never put in your backpack. For example, a stove for a tent or a chainsaw. In addition to its main purpose, sleds are often useful in the camp - to bring firewood, clean snow for cooking, etc. It is also worth taking into account that a huge amount of heat is generated when skiing. If you are wearing a backpack, even if it is not very large, you will not be able to sweat. And it is extremely undesirable to sweat in winter on a hike. In general, if you are planning to acquire such a useful item in the tourism industry as a sled, then our experience of using and "tuning" them will certainly be useful - more on that below.
We use a sled manufactured by the Chris group company in the city of Yakhroma near Moscow. On the manufacturer's website they are called “expedition sleds”. In our opinion, their proportions are the most successful. Fishing sleds, which are sold in every fishing store, are comfortable in flat open spaces (frozen bodies of water), but this is not always the case on a hike. Large width and short length, low or, on the contrary, too high board, angular shape, etc. - all this does not allow you to comfortably use a fishing sled during a hike. So thanks to the "Chris Group" - with their sleighs we went through both many weekend hikes in the Moscow region, as well as longer ski trips, for example, in the Kenozersky National Park and the Northern Urals.
From the factory, the sledges come with two standard holes in the front part - you just have to tie the rope and you can go hiking. Actually, we did so at first. A 7 mm repscord was threaded through the holes, and the resulting loop from the opposite side was fastened to the belt with two carabiners, or even simply thrown over the shoulder. All these are quite working options, but it is better to modify the sled a little to make it more comfortable on the hike.
If you just put the equipment in the sleigh, then snow will fall into it, and on a sharp turn or when the sleigh is overturned, something can easily fall out. Therefore, we recommend that you sew a simple rectangular bag and insert a plastic zipper into it. Let the bag be like a sled in length and width, and 50-60 centimeters in height. You can pack anything in such a bag, and then zip it up and put it in the sleigh. This will prevent snow from getting into your equipment and nothing will be lost. We fix the bag itself using a simple device made of a cord and luggage elastic with hooks (see photo below).
You can use two luggage elastic bands, one on each side - so the load securing will be as reliable as possible. We drill the holes in the side of the sleigh with a regular wood drill. By adjusting the length of the gripping knot, the tension of the elastic can also be controlled.
The cargo should be packed into the drags in a certain order: the heaviest items are on the bottom, and which is lighter on top. At the same time, it is better not just to stuff things inside the cover, but to pre-pack them in bags - dense plastic bags, like from under sugar, have proven themselves well. At the top, near the zipper itself, you should put a puff, a thermos, a first aid kit, a snack - essential things. The load should not rise as a mountain over the drags - so they will become unstable and will turn over. You can focus on the width of the drags - the height of the load should not exceed it.
In the photo above, you can also see the auxiliary handle at the back of the sled. It is made of a plastic water pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a 7 mm cord, which is threaded into two holes in the side of the sled, and at the bottom it is tied with locking knots. On the way to the starting point of the hike, loaded sledges often have to be carried on hands - it is much more convenient to do this with a handle. The second handle is located in the front - more on that below.
Through two standard holes in the front part of the drags, we passed a 7 mm re-cord, putting on it a plastic water pipe with a diameter of 20 mm. The length of the pipe is equal to the distance between the holes. On each side of the pipe, a conductor knot is tied - the actual harness is fastened into it. The entire structure described above is another handle by which the sled can be carried. The rigid handle prevents the harness from getting tangled and can be useful when overcoming various obstacles along the route, such as fallen trees, etc.