Mountaineering and mountaineering difference

Mountaineering and mountaineering difference

mountaineering, mountaineering, promalps What's the difference?

mountaineering, mountaineering, promalps What's the difference?

Message Hose "Jan 04, 2010, 21:55

Re: mountaineering, mountaineering, hike, what's the difference?

The message of the Galakhovs "Jan 04, 2010, 21:58

Re: mountaineering, mountaineering, hike, what's the difference?

Message Hose "Jan 04, 2010, 10:05 pm

Re: mountaineering, mountaineering, hike, what's the difference?

Message Hose "Jan 04, 2010, 10:07 pm

Re: mountaineering, mountaineering, hike, what's the difference?

Message from Andrey Goryunov "04 Jan 2010, 22:19

Mountaineering and mountaineering difference

How to choose a route that is interesting and safe.

When you are about to climb a mountain, it is not enough to choose a beautiful name and rush headlong to the peak you like. It is important to choose a route within your own strength. To make it easier to navigate, climbers give routes to categories. In the CIS, a system is used in which each route is assigned a category of difficulty from 1A to 6B. First, I'll tell you about it, and then go through the rest.

To avoid a mess in your head, you need to distinguish between categories of difficulty - they speak of the difficulty of the entire route, and categories of difficulty of climbing - they describe the complexity of individual movements. Here are the categories of difficulty of the rocks, and here are the ice ones.

Unlike most other systems, ours takes height into account. On some peaks there are no technical difficulties, while they are quite high. They are assigned categories just for the height.

Difficulty categories in the CIS

1A - slightly more difficult than just walking with your feet. Somewhere to stick to the ledge, somewhere to go around the bottomless abyss. No special skills are needed, just common sense. Examples: Panfilov's Heroes from the Manshuk Mametova Pass. There you walk for a long time with your feet and with your feet you come to the top. ntikainena from the pass of the Patriotic War looks like a talus slope. But until you reach it along the talus, you will get tired and start leaning on the rocks.

1B - there are simple rocky walls 20 meters high or gentle ice areas. A group with an initial level of training will complete such a route to the top in 1-2 hours. Available to all healthy people. Examples: Amangeldy from the west. There are two walls 15 and 20 meters long and 80 meters of a simple ridge. youth along the western ridge. A little more than a kilometer along a snow-ice ridge with a steepness of up to 30 °.

2A - to complete these routes you need to be able to use safety equipment and imagine how to climb ice and rocks. Or just walking a lot. Examples: Amangeldy along the southwestern ridge: 15-meter wall, where you need to insure, 100 meters of talus couloir, 40-meter wall where you need to insure, 30 meters of talus, descent along the railing by 10 meters, a simple but terrible ridge, 30 -meter wall, 80 meters of a simple ridge to the top. ntikainen along the western ridge: a kilometer of snow-ice ridge with two ice walls 15 meters each and rock outcrops.

2B - I don't want to come here without insurance. On the route there may be 2-3 rocky sections of the third category of difficulty, 30-50 meters long. It takes 2-3 hours to complete the technical part of route 2B. Examples: Amangeldy on the eastern ridge: two climbing ropes of the III-IV category of difficulty and 100 meters of the ridge. ktabrenok on the northwest ridge: 900 meters of a simple ridge with several simple walls.

3A - it takes 3-4 hours to complete the technical part of the route, there are sections of the IV category of difficulty. Examples: Traverse Teacher → Pioneer: first two ropes of three-way climbing, then 250 meters of cut rock ridge. Youth on the northern slope: 500 meters of snow-ice slope with a steepness of up to 50 °.

First-rate dudes say that mountaineering starts with fours, but triplets can have adventures that will not be forgotten.

3B - the technical part of the route takes 4–5 hours, good shape is required and the ability to use all safety equipment. On the route there may be 3-5 pitches of climbing, or up to a kilometer of ridge of medium difficulty. Examples: Manshuk Mametova along the northern ridge: 400 meters of rugged rock ridge with two difficult sections 35 meters long and IV category of difficulty. ioner on the left side of the south wall: 4 ropes with sections up to 6a, then 400 meters of a simple ridge and talus to the top. Azdelnaya (halfway to Lenin Peak): a snowy hill with a height of 6100 meters.

4A - few people get there. The technical part takes 5-6 hours, on the rocks there are areas of difficult (up to 6a +) climbing, ice areas become steep or long. Examples: Pioneer on the buttress of the south wall: 5 climbing pitches up to 6a, then 400 meters of vegetable gardens to the top. mangeldy → Mametova: 3¹⁄₂ kilometers of the ridge with sections of IV category of difficulty, but mostly of III category. It is possible to complete in a day, but difficult.

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