Section of mountain tourism of the Irkutsk State University "GOSY".
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Travel diary Article author: Alexander Agadzhanov Continuation of the article "This summer in the Pamir-Alai. It was snowing)))". The morning of August 14 greeted us with frost, a bright sunrise. The weather has stabilized. And again, the "inhabitants of Middle-earth" hoped that everything would be fine with the weather. render completely.
Having gathered, we started the descent. We fixed 3.5 ropes of rock ropes from the saddle and went out onto the snow-ice slope. According to the descriptions, apparently for safety reasons, before exiting the rocks, you need to go to the right along a horizontal ledge for one rope with a traverse to the right in the direction of travel. But we didn’t do that. Everything was covered with a large layer of snow. Not a single stone fell in the morning. Our leader told the truth: everything is relative - we lost two days due to snowfall, but passed the pass without stones. Something bad, something good. After descending from the rocks, we moved in conjunction with alternating belaying and simultaneous belaying for about 200 m. There was no way to get to the ice. Ice appeared only near the lower bergschrund. We didn't even notice the upper one, it was heavily covered. The lower bergschrund had a bridge over which we went down. Coming to a decent and safe distance from the pass, we got up for lunch. The weather diverged, all the snow-white circus of the Kshemysh glacier literally melted us with its reflection. The heat came, the snow on the glacier became limp, streams began to flow. While we were having lunch, stones were thrown at the pass, including in the place where we were descending. We noticed this only thanks to the trajectories-lines of falling stones that appeared on the snowy slope of the pass. After lunch, we crossed the Kshemysh glacier in bundles, went to its left orographic side and then climbed the moraine on the right in the direction of travel. On it they found ready-made parking lots near the water and began to spend the night. Our next pass, Shchurovsky 1B or 2A (according to whoever thinks), was visible from the place of the overnight stay.
On August 15, we went to the Shchurovsky pass. We overcame the glacier ridge in bundles, walked around the cracks along the bridges, climbed the snowfield to the rocks of the pass. According to the description, the rocks are simple, consisting of a series of shelves with simple climbing. You can go through it without belay and handrails, but we decided not to risk it and hung one rope up to the very saddle of the pass. From the pass we could see our next pass OPTE 3A 4540 m.
Descending in bundles to the closed Shchurovsky glacier, we went with its right orographic side with the expectation to go to the lateral moraine along the way to the right. Going out to the moraine, we had lunch. From the place of lunch, they began to look through our next pass through binoculars, and outlined the route of the ascent. The pass is one-sided and we had to climb along the defining side. After lunch we went down from the moraine to the covered part of the glacier. We got up for the night before the start of takeoff, which leads to the circus of the OPTE pass.
The next day, August 16, there was such a plan of action. Three of them go to see, observe the pass and hang several ascent ropes. Two of them are being dropped under the lake near the moraine of the Long-awaited glacier. One person stays at the camp and prepares lunch at the designated time. After lunch, all together with our belongings we leave under the pass.
We decided to pass the pass on the right along the course next to the overhanging cornice. The entire left side of the pass take-off is brown with stones, although it is shallow, but walking along it is extremely dangerous. In 1 hour 20 minutes we climbed the glacier, consisting of a series of take-offs and flattenings on the right in the direction of travel to the beginning of the pass take-off of the pass. We have outlined the place of today's overnight stay. At about 4200 m there is something like a trough. We decided that we would spend the night on a distant ice ridge, separated from the pass by a trough. If something flies, it will fall into the trough and will not hurt us.
Then we started to climb the pass. We walked and trampled down the steps to the bergschrund, so that tomorrow we would go up an escalator under the berg. Having cut down a little the upper edge of the bergschrund and trampled down the snow bridge, we began to climb lightly. The first participant quickly climbed the bergschrund with an ice tool. The first pitch went along a snow-ice slope with a belay through ice screws. At the end of the rope we came out onto a rock ledge, on which there was someone's left petal. The station was made on the rocks with hooks. The second rope was snowy. You can't get to the ice. I had to climb without a single belay point, in the upper part of the rope under the snow you can feel the rocks. Some kind of mixed climbing began (ice, snow, rocks) with an ice tool. The rope was fixed at the next exit of the rocks beyond the ledge. This completes the processing. We went down to the camp. The guys from the drop-off have already returned two hours ago. We had lunch and began to pack up. Again the weather turned bad and it started to snow. According to the plan, we had to advance under the pass, but we did not want to come under the pass wet, we had to wait for the end of the bad weather. Here came the turning point of our campaign. Some participants began to speak out that with such unstable bad weather, even after overcoming the OPTE pass, we can hang somewhere on the ice section. Skachkova - ice. Zeravshansky - ice. Tolstoy - lane. The long-awaited 3A. We lost a day on the race, two days on the Kshemysh pass due to bad weather. We already had enough time before departure. And then there are new surprises every day. Some participants could not be late for the plane. For they could have problems at work. After assessing the risk, looking for options to shorten the route or save time, we realized that we would not get through this section faster, and after this section we would not be able to catch up with time anywhere. We did not dare to go to Vorukh instead of Raut (Kaindy). After all, this is a Tajik enclave, and for sure, it was necessary to have some special permits in order to be on its territory. Otherwise, problems may arise. Therefore, collectively, we decided to go to the OPTE pass radially for the experiment and go down to the drop-off on the lake of the right moraine of the Long-awaited glacier. On the Zeravshansky glacier, our transfer disappears. We will not get to her in any way.
The bad weather ended at about six in the evening. The mood was not so hot. The five is "covered". On the morning of August 17, the weather is favorable, sunny. Four of us went to the pass, and two went with tents to set up a camp and wait for us. Climbing in our footsteps along the glacier and clamping two icy ropes, the three of us were at the second station. The team leader felt unwell and stayed under the pass to watch our work through binoculars. The third rope of the handrail was no different from the second in complexity. All the same snow with rock outcrops. I had to climb in zigzags from one rocky exit to the next in order to somehow fix the ropes with hooks on the relief. The station was made from the main rope, tying a huge stone. The fourth rope led already to the saddle of the pass. The first part of it ran along simple rocks, and then a steep snow slope, which on the right, in the direction of travel, ends with a cornice. There was no cornice at the place where the group exited to the saddle. Leaving our note on the tour and taking someone else's, we began our descent. The descent took about an hour and a half. Loops were left somewhere, hooks were left somewhere. After the descent, there were congratulations from the head: after all, this is our first passed 3A pass. from under the pass, we went down to the place of spending the night. They took their things and went to the lake. There were no particular obstacles along the way. We went down the sheathed Shchurovsky glacier, crossed the open Long-awaited glacier, climbed the moraine on the left side of the glacier and ended up on the lake. There are convenient parking facilities on the lake.
Half of the next day (August 18) we went down the Shchurovsky glacier and by lunchtime we went to the shepherds' kosh on the right orographic bank of the Dzhiptyk River. There we decided to spend the night.
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