Dagestan, 9 days, July 27 - August 4, 2019 P>
Children in the village of Coust. Photo Shamil Gadzhidadayev (@shamilgadzhidadaev) <
We are waiting for an expedition to Dagestan's areas located at the junction with Georgia and Azerbaijan. There are huge spaces of untouched nature, and people are still followed by the mountain pastoral traditions.
We will rise to a harsh highlands and see the blooming alpine meadows, we will visit the authentic alpine villages, the life of which has changed little for the last hundred years, and get acquainted with the strong spirit of the shepherds who live side by side with bears, often We visit. To one of the villages on the route still did not let down the road. The only way to deliver the cargo there is to imagine a caravan of horses.
Skore village. Photo: Vladimir Sevrinovsky <@
At the end of the journey, we will make a pilgrimage to the shrine on Mount Schalbuzdag and we will visit Derbent - the oldest city of Russia, which arose at the crossroads of many civilizations and combining their traits.
Word, we chose the perfect direction for the expedition, full of real discoveries. At the same time, she is planned so that even adventure seekers without special training.
Day arrival in Makhachkala <
arrival in Makhachkala - the capital of Dagestan. Moving to the hotel, rest. Dinner in the city center, walk through the historic streets with an expert on urban folklore.
The checkpoint on the track is like trap; In the simplest version, it is organized with three trucks. Two of them are located in such a way that they have to travel around "snake", strongly slowing the speed; Armed inspectors are on duty. The third truck is located in the middle of the road: on the roof of the machine gunner - from the height of "KamAZ", all the highways are viewed as on the palm.
Anxious sounds? But no tension is felt. Rather, military-reinforced posts are a local symbol of the rule of law. Yes, Ingushetia, Chechnya, Dagestan are zones of increased vigilance of law enforcement officers. But does this mean that it is better for tourists not to come here? The conclusion is incorrect: there has been no war in the region for a long time; places previously featured in combat reports, met the correspondent of the AIF. u hospitality and courtesy of residents. "Are you a soldier or have you come on vacation?" - asks the inspector, looking at the boots and a backpack in the trunk of the car. "Tourist. I'm going from Elbrus "-" Well, good rest! "
Let's remind the conditions of our trip: a day for each point of the trip with a walk to interesting places, dinner and overnight. Well, let's go: undoubtedly, the most interesting place in the Chechen Republic is the capital. She greets guests with a huge globe with the inscription "Grozny is the center of the world!" An ambitious statement, but, to be sure, there is definitely no other such city in the Caucasus.
Walking around Grozny, it is difficult to imagine that the counter-terrorist operation (CTO) regime was canceled just a few years ago, that there were ruins here, and in general there were once hostilities. There is not a single destroyed building in the city: it has been completely rebuilt, the surviving buildings have been turned over. Grozny resembles a newly renovated apartment: everything is completely new, the smell of construction dust has not yet disappeared and the surfaces are empty.
The city was built neatly, literally "by a ruler", and looks like a picture: long, flat streets, running along the fresh facades of houses and neat fences, are lined with trees and bathed in greenery. The abundance of street "decor" is striking: for example, numerous rotundas - with lighting, drinking fountains, of all sizes and architecture. However, the accelerated pace of construction inevitably manifests itself in the little things: pedestrian paths tend to break off unexpectedly, one of the "zebras" encountered rested against a bump stop, and beautiful paving slabs are often not well laid.
This is somewhat reminiscent of Moscow, where the modernization of urban infrastructure is also carried out quickly. The huge shopping centers on the central avenues and the famous Grozny-City skyscraper ensemble give even more similarity to the capitals. Against the background of predominantly low-rise buildings, the towers seem to be built "for growth", in general, like the whole of Grozny, they make a strong impression.
There is something to see here, you can't get around it all day long: for example, the Heart of Chechnya mosque is the largest in Russia and one of the largest mosques in the world (it can accommodate more than ten thousand people at the same time) ; The Arc de Triomphe, the building of the National Library, as well as many interesting buildings in a modern style. Perhaps the combination of strict conservative architecture and modernist experiments is the main "feature" of Grozny; it is felt that the artists worked on the appearance of the city.
Note that it was not so easy to find a hotel for reasonable money on the May holidays. Despite the fact that prices in the city as a whole are significantly lower than in Moscow, a decent room will cost 4–5 thousand rubles. As for restaurants, a tourist should definitely visit the Kupol cafe-bar on the 32nd floor of Grozny-City: firstly, the tower itself amazes with its interior decoration, and secondly, a magnificent panoramic view of the city opens up from there.
The highway to Makhachkala from Grozny passes through Khasavyurt, a restless city flooded with security forces. Having spotted a BMW with Moscow license plates, the Russian soldiers at the checkpoint nod cheerfully. Further along the Kavkaz highway, we had to bypass a small column of armored vehicles. Such a number of military personnel at first inspired alarm (a local counter-terrorist operation was just taking place in Makhachkala), but Dagestan turned out to be a completely peaceful place.
If you believe that this is the land of unfriendly bearded men and women with their eyes wrapped around their eyes, lose faith in this. The proverb “the higher the mountains, the lower the“ priors ”” also turned out to be incorrect - there are actually very few lowered cars and other crazy “Zhiguli-tuning”. This is understandable: local mountain roads rather require jeeps, and old "Japanese" are in use here - Land Cruiser 80, Patrol Y60 and so on.
Is there a region in Russia more surrounded by stereotypes than Dagestan? Is it dangerous there? If you believe the media, a militant is hiding in every house in the republic. We were not scared and decided to check. We are talking about our trip to Dagestan by car in 2018.
In Dagestan - all the very best in the Caucasus. The most multinational republic, the most diverse nature, the most delicious cuisine, the kindest traffic cops and the most hospitable people.
We felt safer in Dagestan than in our hometown. Yes, here strangers on the street can lash out. to feed and help. If you are invited to visit and eat, save yourself: they will feed you and invite you to spend the night, and afterwards they will give you food with you. The guest is sacred.
Quite a lot of traffic police posts. They stop to register and check documents, and also ask if everything is in order, if help is needed and if someone is offended. You can contact the police officers with any questions: where to buy good gasoline or how to get to the sights.
Cows and dashing drivers are really dangerous in Dagestan. Beware of the first on the mountain serpentines - they suddenly appear in the middle of the road because of the turn or can run in front of the car in a fit of madness. Avoid the latter in the area of Makhachkala - kamikazes in the oncoming traffic strive to overtake as many cars as possible and do not return to their lane until the last. In mountainous Dagestan, drivers are calmer.
Tip. Yet Dagestan is not entirely safe. In the media, stories are still slipping about the liquidated militants and attacks on traffic police posts. Follow the news!
Where are the most open and hospitable people in Russia? In Dagestan. Here, ordinary tourism turns into ethnographic. You just asked the locals for something, and you are already sitting at the set table, listening to life, getting to know family members and looking at photographs. Residents of mountain villages are so sincerely glad to see you that you need to have a cold heart to refuse an invitation.
According to the owner of our hotel, Zemfira, all Dagestani women have a powerful maternal instinct, so they strive to feed, drink and put everyone to sleep.
In 5 days of the jeep tour you will see the most iconic sights of Dagestan! Mountain village Gamsutl, Sulak canyon, the ancient city of Derbent and other famous places of this mountainous republic! There will be a lot of mountains, several mountain passes and waterfalls, alpine reservoirs, living in ethno-houses in the mountains, delicious national food and picnics among stunning mountain landscapes, hundreds of locations for beautiful photos. We will travel a lot in cars and watch a lot every day!
We will drive a lot in jeeps to see the most iconic places of Dagestan in 5 days! We will live in the mountains, eat in the mountains, take pictures in the mountains. At the same time, our trip will take place without long pedestrian crossings, and even more so without backpacks. This is a tour for relaxation and saturation with new impressions, and not for physical exertion. The trip takes place on comfortable off-road vehicles, we spend the night in mountain guest houses. Rooms in them are designed for 2-4 people. Toilet and shower in the house, they are for several rooms. You shouldn't wait for the Radisson level there, but everywhere it is very cozy, deliciously fed with homemade Dagestan food, talk about mountain traditions and treat you like guests of their home, and not like tourists.
Itinerary Download as PDF
Sulak canyon and Sarykum dune. Turquoise mountain rivers and a "branch" of the desert in the middle of Dagestan.
The first day of the tour is full of natural beauty. Meeting the group in the morning in Makhachkala. Departure towards the Sulak canyon, on the way there is a big stop to see an amazing natural phenomenon - the Sarykum dune. Branch of the Sahara Desert in Dagestan! After the dune, we move forward to the Sulak canyon. There we visit popular viewing platforms with views of the deepest canyon. Then we go for a boat ride on the turquoise waters of the canyon! And then we go to the most beautiful observation platforms, where almost no one takes! There you will certainly not see crowds of tourists and sightseeing buses, because only good jeeps can check in. We also have lunch near the Sulak canyon. There is a trout farm near the canyon where delicious fish is prepared. On the same day, the beautiful Chirkei reservoir awaits us.
Lunch and dinner while traveling, hearty field cuisine and guided treats. Overnight at the guest house.
Acquaintance with serpentines, high-altitude hydroelectric power stations and gorges
On the second day we will travel along the mountain roads of Dagestan. We will see the stunning Tobot waterfall in the Khunzakh region, see the photogenic Karadakh gorge and then arrive at the most beautiful mountainous region of Dagestan - Gunibsky. The views of the sunset mountains are getting a mind-boggling number of likes on Instagram!
With the help of trekking, by car and on foot, you will get acquainted with the unique beauties of mountainous Dagestan. You will walk through historical places and natural artifacts, along the path of Emperor Alexander II: from the Gunib fortress and objects associated with the name of the legendary leader of the highlanders, Imam Shamil, to the Karadakh gorge. Take excursions to the Sarykum dune and Sulak canyon, to the Kegerskoe plateau and to the Saltinsky waterfall, to the "Sicilian" Chokh and the ghost aul Gamsutl.
The benefits of this trip:
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The capital of Dagestan invites you to start an active hiking trekking tour in the North Caucasus!
In the records of the historian Ghevond, the ancestor of Makhachkala, the aul of Tarki, was mentioned back in the 8th century. In memory of the Persian campaign of Emperor Peter the Great in 1844, the construction of the Petrovsky fortification was started.
The city of Port-Petrovsk, formed later, in the Soviet period was renamed in honor of Makhach Dakhadayev, the Bolshevik leader.
In the evening, you have time for an independent acquaintance with the city, in the old days called Pearl, with its streets, avenues, monuments, pearls of architecture, the beach area and the Caspian Sea.
The national cuisine is surprisingly diverse and generous, and it can be given its due on the first evening of travel in Dagestan.
The active walking tour in Dagestan includes excursions.
The first is the reserve of the dune Sarykum, which is several hundred thousand years old.
I will continue my story about the rest in Sochi with a description of the Krasnaya Polyana resort. Before my trip to Sochi, I could not imagine the difference between Krasnaya Polyana and Rosa Khutor
Useful information for hunters. Hunting features. How to hunt correctly. Description of animals and birds. Tourism in the Krasnoyarsk Territory. Survey of hunting goods and shops.