How to see a rocket launch at Baikonur: passwords, turnouts, and how it happened in general

How to see a rocket launch at Baikonur: passwords, turnouts, and how it happened in general

I was silent for a long time) In particular, because here in November my dream came true to get to Baikonur. This is a long and informative post. And a lot of photos :)

Verticalization is an epic sight

Dream

What did you dream of becoming as a child? I changed my wishlist every three to five years, but one thing remained unchanged: it had to be something heroic, powerful, so after the desire to be a firefighter | police officers | I settled on an astronaut as a lifeguard.

Then something went wrong, and I became what I became, but the soul does not just lie to space, it stretches there with all possible forces (so here's a fun fact for you: 5-6 years ago in the middle of the night, at a friend's party, I wrote a letter to Roscosmos with the fact that I bequeath my body to them in order to send it to fly into outer space with a message to foreign civilizations, there is no answer, however, to this day).

Going to Baikonur and watching the launch of the rocket has long been one of the desires, and, unlike a flight to the ISS, it is much more doable. True, tourist trips for 90,000 rubles from Moscow did not impress me. And the knowledge that if there is a fence, then it can always be climbed, was also put in a box - not a short way.

But the stars themselves went right.

How did it come about?

A year ago, at a friend's birthday party, the speech somehow went beyond space, and it turned out that one of those sitting at the table went to Baikonur as part of a scientific conference.

This is how I learned about Alexander Arapov, Chairman of the Russian Association of Physics Students and Young Scientists, in absentia. And immediately she wrote to him, of course, only then, in the distant already February, the conversation was postponed until the summer.

Summer flew by quickly, especially with the camp, and I remembered all this only at the end of September, when the composition of the conference participants should have been determined and, in general, it seems like everything, it's too late to drink Borjomi.

Monument to Gagarin. In April, he holds the sun in his hands, and there is truth in this

How to see a rocket launch at Baikonur: passwords, turnouts, and how it happened in general

"We will never leave here!" - say the Russians from Baikonur, although many now have to survive. The lease term for the cosmodrome, after the collapse of the USSR, which ended up in another country, ends in 2050. But how to abandon what the fathers and grandfathers created in the bare steppe, from scratch, sometimes sacrificing not only health, but also life?

It is not the first time that Baikonur has survived. In January 1955, the first builders got off the train at the Turatam station. And in August 1957, the third - finally successful - rocket launch took place. But what did it cost the pioneers! "Baikonyr" only translates as "rich valley" - the main wealth here has always been people.

You sleep where you fell

The strategic facility - a test range for combat missiles NIIP No. 5 MO - was built by soldiers under the leadership of Major General Shubnikov. They also lived there: in tents, in German trophy wagons. Then they remembered: where you fell, there you sleep. Closer to spring, they began to dig dugouts, covering them with reeds. Almost two years passed before the first barracks was erected - for officers.

- In the formation and development of the Soviet nuclear missile shield, Baikonur played an important role - Kapustin Yar was no longer enough, - says military service veteran Viktor Kulepetov. - People got here like on Mars, did not know what they were building. They all took a nondisclosure agreement.

23-year-old Maria Yarotskaya was transferred in 1956 from the military unit to Kapustin Yar. Behind her there was only a fish technical school, but until the age of 70 she calculated the flight trajectories of all missiles and the point of impact.

- We worked in manual mode - at first on adding machines. In parallel, they counted in three rooms and compared. I remember the buttons on my calculating machine fell off. Suddenly Korolev came - began to press and completely broke. Oh, he says, I'm sorry. And I went further ...

Soon a military service was built near the barracks. And how to store food in the monstrous heat? They dug holes, covered them with ice, until he descended on the river. But this is for the soldier's canteen - stewed meat, milk powder, egg powder and ... carp from the Syr Darya rescued people at home.

- There was nowhere to wash. And here, after all, the dust - the face had to be covered with gas kerchiefs. They put a carriage somewhere and took us there as if to a bathhouse. Lather up - suddenly the water is turned off. You shout: "No hot!" And the soldiers who served us were probably just hooligans.

A little later a wooden town of prefabricated panel houses appeared. Two entrances. Each half has three rooms - one for a family. Toilet, shower - outside.

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