The Irkutsk region has a chance to win a worthy place in the gastronomic tourism of Russia "

Weekend itinerary: Tofalaria

Daria Golushko, specially for IRK. u

November 9, 2018 2 comments about 8 minutes to read

Drive to the Barguzin Valley.

Nikolay Semenyuk traveled through 27 cities of Russia.

History and traditions of the people living in the Irkutsk region.

Hot discussions

Irkutsk woman Daria Golushko shared the story of a summer trip to the waterfalls of the Podkomarnaya River.

Sitting at home on the weekend, looking through summer photos and remembering an adventure that happened to me this summer - a trip to the waterfalls of the Podkomarnaya River and its tributaries. Usually, these waterfalls are visited in company with Chersky Peak. But I didn't want to gallop through interesting places, especially since we were limited to two weekends, so we left only waterfalls in the route.

I had to start packing on Thursday, because I had to leave on Friday right after work. In family trips, I am responsible for the contents of backpacks and the household part, that is, I must not forget the boilers, gas, burner, food, first aid kit and hygiene items, and the task of the husband is to drive, carry weights, think over the route and be responsible for safety.

We left the city at about 7 pm on Friday. They took with them a dog named Dearie, he is always happy to run through the forest. We planned to have dinner in Solzane (not far from Baikalsk) and at night to call on the road to Chersky. To call in, not to enter, since for off-road travel we use the all-wheel drive "Chevrolet Niva".

We arrived at the peak trail even earlier than planned, just beginning to get dark. The first kilometers of driving was easy and pleasant - a few shallow puddles and small boulders are not an obstacle for the "Niva". Brody also passed through Slyudyanka without incident. They did not let the dog out so as not to frighten the night tourists, so Dearie had to enjoy nature through the open window of the car. Closer to the tourist center, the car went harder, the road was covered in huge boulders, there were very steep slopes to the fords, we had to go very slowly, we were even overtaken by a group of tourists a couple of times. It was already completely dark. A few kilometers after the camp site, we found a convenient place to park and stay overnight. We quickly set up our tent near the trail and went to sleep.

On Saturday we woke up early, had breakfast, drove the car away into the bushes and began to climb. It turned out that the wide road, which could theoretically be driven by car, ends a couple of kilometers from our overnight stop. Then a narrow walking path begins. It is very pleasant to go on the route in the early morning. It's not hot yet, the sun's rays make their way through the dense foliage, it smells of a forest and a cold mountain river. There are few people, since the bulk of tourists who arrive by morning train to Slyudyanka have not yet managed to catch up with us.

Weekend itinerary: hike to the waterfalls of the Podkomarnaya river

Oleg Bezprozvannykh, photo by Dmitry Kryazhev and Elena Rusakova

March 18, 2017 9 comments about 7 minutes to read

Drive to the Barguzin Valley.

Nikolay Semenyuk traveled through 27 cities of Russia.

History and traditions of the people living in the Irkutsk region.

Hot discussions

Members of the Irkutsk club of speleologists continue on weekends and holidays to get out to the most interesting places in the Irkutsk region. This time, Oleg Bezprozvannykh spoke about a trip to the hard-to-reach Tofalaria, on the ice of the river you can get there only two or three weeks a year.

The Irkutsk club of speleologists traditionally goes to Tofalaria - to the village of Alygdzher almost every year. We were always attracted by the compactly located several interesting caves: Urungai (Winter's Tale) - with ice stalactites taller than human growth, ice slides and a floor, an underground lake; Spirinskaya is a two-storey cave, for the passage of the second floor it is necessary to descend 26 meters down the rope; Light - goes through the mountain, and others.

Besides, this is a very distinctive place in the very center of Sayan. Mountains surround the village from all sides. And if you climb the surrounding peaks, you can see the white peaks of the central ridge to the south and west of the village. The people themselves who live there are also interesting. There are no more than half a thousand of them left, their native language is almost never used. According to the researchers, the Tofalars are related to the Tuvans from the mountainous Toji. In ancient times, several genera moved to the northern slopes of the Sayan and began to occupy the vast territory of today's Krasnoyarsk Territory and Irkutsk Region.

Tofalaria is also one of the centers of reindeer husbandry, people were previously inseparable with their reindeer, which allowed them to roam in places where a horse cannot pass. In Soviet times, it was quite easy to get to this region: small aircraft worked well and sports tourist trips were supported at the regional and city levels. Nowadays, except by helicopter, it is relatively easy to get there only in a few winter weeks, while the winter road Nizhneudinsk - Alygdzher is stable. But it still remains a dangerous and impassable road with a length of about 250 kilometers. Therefore, when traveling on it, it is necessary to have a car with a winch in the column, and all cars must have four-wheel drive and high ground clearance.

This year we have 3 cars - 8 adults and 3 children. We left the city in the evening after work. We spent the night in Tulun with a very interesting person, a patriot of our region - Tereshchenko Nikolai Vasilyevich - at its base. He also gave some advice on the way and additional contacts in the village itself.

Not far from Tulun, we turned off the road and after 3 hours of movement along the village roads and taiga we went down to the Udu river itself. A trip among the mountains along a frozen river is one of the strongest impressions of this trip. We see at what height the trees hang during the spring flood, recall the reports of water workers about overcoming rapids of the 3rd category of difficulty. The water route is now given to us easily and naturally, the fierce river is blocked by ice. Only memorial plaques on the rocks remind how difficult this river is in summer. On the way, we meet a column of "Urals", which manage to drop along this temporary road the goods necessary for the village during these weeks. We met fishermen from Irkutsk who came to try their luck on lenok and burbot. The weather station on Hadam was left behind (we did not have time to say hello from our club comrades, who somehow had to spend the night here).

Closer to the village there was one section where the river froze in the form of huge waves among the cobblestones. And we, like ships in the sea, rose to the crest of another wave and sank down. You can also note how this year we were lucky with the weather - all days of the trip the temperature was +4, +5. Just nonsense for those places at this time of the year (usually -20, -30).

Daria Golushko shared her summer memories.

December 31, 2016 18 comments about 6 minutes to read

Drive to the Barguzin Valley.

Nikolay Semenyuk traveled through 27 cities of Russia.

History and traditions of the people living in the Irkutsk region.

Hot discussions

Winter is in full swing, and the long New Year holidays are ahead. It's time to get up on downhill skiing and snowboarding. And we found out the cost of equipment rental and a ski pass for you. Enjoy your vacation.

Sobolinaya Mountain

One-time ascent on the towing cable car No. 1, 2 and 5 - 100 rubles on weekdays, 120 - on weekends and 150 during the New Year holidays from December 31 to January 8. On the road number 6 - 140, 180 and 200 rubles, respectively. For a training slope - 60, 80 and 120 rubles, and for a tubing track - 60, 120 and 150, respectively.

It is more expensive to climb on a cable car - with skis 120 rubles on weekdays, 150 - on weekends and holidays, 200 - on New Year's holidays. An hour of skiing on weekdays will cost 350 rubles, on weekends and holidays - 450, on New Year's holidays - 500. Subscription from 10:00 to 17:00 at 1000, 1550 and 2000, respectively. Ski pass for three weekdays - from 2500. Hour for children - 250, 350 and 400, day pass - 550, 900 and 1000. Plus 150 rubles must be paid for the card and 250 for the key fob.

Rental of a set of skis (skis up to 125 centimeters, up to size 38) - 300 rubles. For a set with skis over 125 centimeters and boots over 38 sizes - on weekdays - 500 rubles, on weekends - 700.

Boris Slepnev, specially for IRK. u

September 11, 2020 13 comments about 10 minutes to read Travel Club →

Drive to the Barguzin Valley.

Nikolay Semenyuk traveled through 27 cities of Russia.

History and traditions of the people living in the Irkutsk region.

Hot discussions

One of the most beautiful villages in the upper reaches of the Lena, in my opinion, is Chanchur. The settlement is located about 75 kilometers from Kachug at the confluence of the Lena and Chanchura rivers. Its name is translated from Evenk as “pure water”. At the suggestion of the writer Valentin Rasputin, who has repeatedly visited the taiga corner, Chanchur is also called a paradise.

To be more precise, Chanchur is located at the confluence of three rivers; in rainy years, the Konkudei stream also brings its waters to the Lena. The village has the most ordinary houses, but the lack of architectural delights is compensated by nature. However, the taiga village has its own unique objects - a monument to the Cossack Kurbat Ivanov, one of the compilers of the "map of Baikal and the falling rivers", as well as the house-museum of the Hero of the Soviet Union, Honored Test Pilot Alexander Tyuryumin. You will not find a second taiga museum with an official status in all of Russia.

Karbasy: Northern Lens-style delivery

In the old days, Evenks roamed the upper reaches of the Lena River with reindeer, but here a small part of them switched to a sedentary lifestyle, still hunting and fishing. In the late 19th - early 20th centuries, the alien Cossacks built karbas - rowing transport ships, which were then lowered to Kachug, loaded and sent north to Yakutia, supplying settlements with food and goods up to the Laptev Sea. Today it is called the Northern Delivery. One karbas took on board up to 40 tons of cargo, and keeping such a colossus on river rifts and rapids was considered a real art. One of Lena's sleeves is called the Dunkina channel. There is a legend that during one of the rafts the men drank and fell asleep. At the steering oar, it was probably the same Dunya who had not been able to steer on the river bend. As a result, the cargo ship crashed and sank, and the channel was called Dunkina.

Only the master-karbassniks, who identified pines, cedars with increased buoyancy, were valued higher than raftsmen. The trunks of the trees were first split along the length, and only then the sides of dry cargo ships were made. Some karbases bore the names of their creators, the inscription on board was considered a kind of quality mark of river shipbuilders. Despite the costs of the century, the craft was short-lived - one navigation. Upstream the karbas did not return, every year the craftsmen laid new ones. With the development of the river shipping company, a difficult craft faded into the background, carbases were no longer needed, whole villages lost work, which was one of the reasons for their ruin. In the 40s, Chanchur had about 40 households, and according to the 2010 census, only one person had a local residence permit - Tikhon Romanovich Gorbunov.

Nevertheless, the village was revived, a whole street of new houses appeared here - Zapovednaya. The name was born by itself, just a few kilometers away is the border of the Baikal-Lensky reserve.

Chanchur probably owes its revival to the former senior hunting inspector of the reserve, Vladimir Petrovich Trapeznikov, who popularizes this place. He erected in the village a monument to Kurbat Ivanov and the pioneering Cossacks who made the first map of Lake Baikal. Vladimir Petrovich assures that Kurbat was undeservedly consigned to oblivion, although he did more for Russia than Pokhabov, Beketov and even Dezhnev. As proof, Trapeznikov cites an extract from Alexei Mikhailovich's decree on the salary of Kurbat Ivanov "... twelve rubles of money, bread: ten rye, ten oats, three pounds of salt ...".

April 17, 2019 2 comments about 8 minutes to read

What was that time and what do you remember.

Report by an IRK journalist. u.

How to sign up and what are the contraindications.

Ruslan works as a car mechanic at a factory and dreams of acting in a movie.

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11 April by IRK guests. u Anna Surkova, author of the Siberian Cuisine Guide project, and Alexander Deev, chairman of the board of the Dikorosy Association, became the author of the Siberian Cuisine Guide project in the Voices of the City project at Radio Radio. We talked about the development of gastronomic tourism in the region and the new IRK project. u "Guide to Siberian Cuisine".

About Siberian cuisine

Anna Surkova: As a person who grew up on wild meat, I can say with confidence that there is definitely Siberian cuisine. But, unfortunately, few people know about it. Therefore, at the beginning of the year we launched a unique project - "A Guide to Siberian Cuisine". This is a pocket booklet card that includes dishes of Siberian cuisine that can be tasted in the city's restaurants.

However, we broke many copies before deciding what to mean by "local cuisine" and which dish to include in the Guide. It turned out that in each of them the traditions of different peoples are mixed: one has Polish roots, the other Ukrainian - it has historically developed that there are many cultures in Siberia. Then we decided: we need to build on local products that are or grow only in our region. We have something to be proud of and something to offer to guests who are already at the airport asking to feed them with local dishes.

When Alexander Deev arrived after the forest forum, he showed the Fast Food Guide. I then thought that you can make a really cool project that we will all be proud of. Together with the IRK team. u started looking at restaurants that have wild meat, Siberian fish, mushrooms, berries on the menu. They chose 50 establishments, but only 16 restaurants reached the final. The fact is that the positions declared in the menu were not everywhere. In addition, in the Guide we recommend the dish, so we tried to select only delicious, with a beautiful presentation, for which we are not ashamed.

The First Guide has sold 10 thousand copies. Thanks to our partners - the Center for Food Service and Culinary Arts "Elite Trade" and the Association "Dikorosy", museums, hotels, restaurants, who took part in the project. We are currently working on the second release. And we have already started tasting. Today we were very warmly greeted at the Slavyanka restaurant. There has never been such a self-assembled tablecloth. We will not reveal all the secrets, I will only say that my heart is devoted to pies with smoked whitefish and pancakes with venison.

Alexander Deev: Of course, there is Siberian cuisine, but they don't know about it. I hope the Guide contributes to the dissemination of local cuisine not only among the guests of the city, but also among residents.

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