Waves, their beauty, continuous movement and variability never cease to amaze a person.
It is important to understand that changes in the ocean occur every second, the waves in it are infinitely different and unique.
Successful surfing is impossible without understanding how waves appear and propagate, which changes their speed, strength, shape, height.
First, let's understand the terminology.
Periodic oscillation of water in relation to the equilibrium position is called a wave.
It has the following elements:
Wave volatility makes it extremely difficult to measure. The fluctuations are assessed by several parameters.
Height is the distance from the sole to the ridge. They measure it in different ways. Surfer reports indicate the difference in the oscillation of the meteorological buoys. Sometimes the wave height is indicated in "growths".
Length is the distance between adjacent ridges.
Slope is the ratio of height to wavelength.
Period - the time between two waves in a group (set).
Today, a large number of people in the world are surfing, and it is especially developed in countries that have access to the ocean. There, surfing is not an exotic sport, like ours, there - it can be an ordinary hobby, a lesson at school or morning exercises before work.
When our compatriots decide to try surfing, most often their choice falls on famous places and countries that they have seen in films, TV programs or which they have heard about from their fellow surfers. Surfing is an endless ocean, waves, sun, beautiful beaches and tanned surfers - these are the pictures we see on surf camp sites. We are ready to buy tickets, book a trip and race to conquer the waves. But is everything so cloudless and perfect? Let's look at it from the other side.
The sunny coast, the sound of the ocean and the sounds of ukulele are immediately presented. You take a board and set off to catch the waves, enjoying the reigning tranquility ... Once everything was like that. But Hawaii today is a crowded spot, high wave competition, especially for mid to high level surfers.
A lot of competition is due to the fact that people living here have been skating since childhood, and visiting tourists only increase the number of those who want to catch the wave. Unfortunately, it will be difficult for a beginner among a large number of people.
Do not forget that the warm water of Hawaii is loved not only by people, but, at times, by sharks as well. And getting an American visa makes travel to this legendary surfing spot difficult.
This country is simply made for surfing: a tropical climate, gorgeous beaches and perfect waves for different levels of skiing - all this attracts a huge number of people. Surfing is possible here all year round and on almost the entire coast. And all these factors create a lot of competition on line-ups. It is also worth noting that local Australians are quite aggressive and do not allow visitors to ride. But locals can also be understood - not everyone wants to share their waves, so as not to turn surf spots into a soup of people.
Every year there are more and more people on the spots. A huge number of Russians on line-ups, Russian surf camps and instructors. Demand gives rise to supply, but great demand also gives rise to disappointment: it is enough to see with your own eyes the number of surfers who are raking with you on one wave. And this situation is getting worse every year, especially during the New Year and May holidays.
The crime situation on the island has also deteriorated: a large number of relaxed tourists attract thieves. And the ecological problem of Bali is a real catastrophe, the island is drowning in plastic, and, unfortunately, a large number of people on the island do not solve this problem in any way.
We do not discourage you from trying surfing in these countries, we want to share knowledge and experience that will expand the scope of possibilities. Everyone wants to try surfing and not be disappointed, they want to ride in a comfortable environment and have fun.
The large number of people on the spot not only interferes with fully enjoying surfing and progressing, but also carries with it danger. Advanced surfers know the rules and etiquette of surfing, beginners do not have enough experience, and we often see them rolling on the foam next to each other. The length of the beginner's board is about 2.5 meters, leash - another 1.5 meters - all this creates a 4-meter defeat zone around the beginner. Beginners are not able to control the situation around them, since they do not yet have sufficient experience, therefore, for safety reasons, you need to ride at a distance of 5 meters from each other so as not to injure another person. But this is not possible on crowded spots.
We want you to enjoy surfing, ride safely, and for that you need to think outside the box. Our world is huge, there are many more opportunities and places for surfing than meets the eye. We are ready to share our experience:
If surfing begins with curiosity, with the desire to conquer the elements, to become one of Them - almost Poseidons, cutting the waves, then the surfer definitely starts from the board.
"A surfboard is just a board" - think those who have never stood on this very board (save them from flashing this idea in front of a real surfer).
However, after the very first attempt to fight the ocean one-on-one, even the uninitiated understand: there are no two identical waves, and each of them obeys only a certain board.
Let's see what types of "weapons" are in possession of the Big Water today.
There are as many varieties of surfboards as there are surfers themselves - eyes run wide. But, of course, there are also the most popular ones. They are the most comfortable, reliable and modestly legendary.
Speaking of legend, this is he, the great-great-grandfather of modern boards and surfing as such - the longboard. Read more about "how the first surfboard was tempered" here, but for now let's move on to the features of longs.
A long board is an elongated, massive surfboard with a smooth profile.
At the beginning of the last century, such a unit, with a length of 4.9 m and a thickness of almost 10 cm, weighed up to 70 kg.
In the mid-30s, the average weight of a longboard dropped to 25-30 kg, length - up to 4.6 m. At the same time, the famous Tom Blake first equipped the board with fin.
Thanks to them, there is no need to "steer" your feet on the water during maneuvers.
Today's longs did not appear until the early 1970s. Now their average length is 2.6-2.9 m (in general, it can exceed 3.7 m), their thickness is 5-8 cm.
With the onset of heat on rivers, lakes and canals, SUP-surfers came out. This is a relatively young type of water sport that is gaining more and more popularity every year. SUP therapy relieves stress, stabilizes blood pressure, strengthens the cardiovascular system and actively burns calories. We will answer the 10 most common questions about this unusual sport.
No special training is required to stand on the SUP. A 15-minute briefing on how to row and stand comfortably on the board is enough. Physical fitness is not important for a calm walk. Parents with their children, teenagers, and even older people also ride the board. Some even take four-legged pets with them.
Everyone who swims on a SUP board wears a life jacket and is strapped to the board with a special leash. If you lose balance, the board will not float away, and the vest will prevent you from plunging headlong into the water.
Most often people fall from a loss of balance - they are distracted by a phone in their pocket or a fitness bracelet on their wrist. Therefore, it is better to remove items from your pockets that can be distracting. You need to fully focus on what you are doing. Concerning this and thoughts - leave the problems "overboard" and just enjoy a walk on the water.
Yes, if you are overweight, it is better to give up SUP-walking. It is also not recommended for people under 18 to stand alone on the board.
You don't need to buy any special clothing. On warm summer days, you can ride in shorts and T-shirts, and for romantic people - in light dresses.
Skysurfing is the most fantastic sport. Some 40 years ago, even the most notorious extreme sportsmen, riding motorcycles across the African deserts, or conquering the snow-capped Himalayan peaks, could not imagine this.
But in the 1980s, there were people who came up with a new entertainment: they took a surfboard and jumped out of the plane to ride it using the currents of the wind. It would be more logical to call it windsurfing, but by that time the term was already taken up by another sports discipline. A good alternative turned out to be "surfing in the sky" - "surfing sky" - a beautiful name for an exciting free fall flight.
In fact, skysurfing has nothing to do with any surfing. This is a pure parachute discipline.
So the jump lasts about 250 seconds or just over 4 minutes.
Not only the jump and trick elements performed by the main athlete are subject to evaluation, but also the work of the operator, who is not just an observer, but a full-fledged member of the team. It was the "creative" tuning of the performer and the operator that made it possible to make jumps, amazing in their technique and beauty.
The jump itself is evaluated by the judges in points according to the following criteria:
Free Fall Tricks:
All the trick elements are very effective. Even a simple surfing while standing on the board looks exciting and unusual.